I am not a fan of making new year's resolutions but it is something that I will do for my home vermicomposting project.
My workload didn't allow me to spend time on vermiculture forcing me to increase price to discourage orders. My first resolution has something to do with pricing.
First, I will exert effort to bring African Nightcrawler prices down to at least Php800.00 per kilogram. This means I have to look for cooperators who would also propagate earthworms in their backyards.
Second, I will make it more convenient to customers to buy earthworms by engaging retail partners around NCR.
Third, I will post more frequently and blog on organic gardening and solid waste management.
I hope I get to encourage more people to do home vermicomposting by doing all the things I listed above. More people getting into vermiculture means less garbage. Less garbage means a lot of savings.
Showing posts with label Home Vermicomposting. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Home Vermicomposting. Show all posts
January 4, 2011
December 4, 2010
Angels of the Earth and Other Quotations
Here are some quotations on earthworms.
"Intestines of the soil" - Aristotle (384 to 322B.C.
"When we behold a wide, turf-covered expanse, we should remember that its smoothness, on which so much of its beauty depends, is mainly due to all the inequalities having been slowly levelled by worms. It is a marvellous reflection that the whole of the superficial mould over any such expanse has passed, and will again pass, every few years through the bodies of worms. The plough is one of the most ancient and most valuable of man's inventions; but long before he existed the land was in fact regularly ploughed, and still continues to be thus ploughed by earth-worms. It may be doubted whether there are many other animals which have played so important a part in the history of the world, as have these lowly organized creatures." - Charles Darwin, The Formation of Vegetable Mould
November 30, 2010
Preventing Worms From Escaping Their Bin
African Nightcrawler (ANC)earthworms are migratory worms. Preventing newly purchased worms from escaping their bin is top priority for beginners.
Here are things that you can do to manage your migratory worms.
BEFORE BUYING WORMS
A well-prepared bedding helps earthworms quickly adjust to their new environment.
Choose a bin 15" - 24" high. African Nightcrawler earthworms are surface dwellers. They can live down to 18" from the surface. Your bin should be high enough (15" - 24") to contain enough bedding materials for your worms.
The bedding should have 70% - 90% moisture content. If you are using paper and carton strips,the paper should be moist like a wrung out sponge.
The food preferably should have been pre-composted for two weeks and cooled to room temperature before introduction to the bin.
Addition of "old bedding" into the new bedding. It helps if you can ask your worm supplier for some bedding material where the worms came from originally.
If possible, the old bedding should be equal to the weight of worms purchased. The original bedding also gives more protection while transporting the earthworms to its new home.
AFTER BUYING WORMS
Gently insert the worms and the old bedding at one corner of the bin. Allow the worms to explore their new home instead of dispersing them around the bin since worms tend to group together even in mature beddings.
Cover the surface with plenty of dry material after introducing your worms into their new environment. The dry material will prevent worms from getting out of your bin since worms need plenty of moisture to crawl around.
If possible, wrap a few sheets of newspaper around the top of the bin. The newspaper should not touch the bedding as this might transfer moisture allowing worms to crawl out.
Place the bin cover, if any.
African Nightcrawler earthworms are migratory in nature and covering your bin's surface with enough dry material, apart from making a proper bedding, prevents the worms from crawling out.
Here are things that you can do to manage your migratory worms.
BEFORE BUYING WORMS
A well-prepared bedding helps earthworms quickly adjust to their new environment.
Choose a bin 15" - 24" high. African Nightcrawler earthworms are surface dwellers. They can live down to 18" from the surface. Your bin should be high enough (15" - 24") to contain enough bedding materials for your worms.
The bedding should have 70% - 90% moisture content. If you are using paper and carton strips,the paper should be moist like a wrung out sponge.
The food preferably should have been pre-composted for two weeks and cooled to room temperature before introduction to the bin.
Addition of "old bedding" into the new bedding. It helps if you can ask your worm supplier for some bedding material where the worms came from originally.
If possible, the old bedding should be equal to the weight of worms purchased. The original bedding also gives more protection while transporting the earthworms to its new home.
AFTER BUYING WORMS
Gently insert the worms and the old bedding at one corner of the bin. Allow the worms to explore their new home instead of dispersing them around the bin since worms tend to group together even in mature beddings.
Cover the surface with plenty of dry material after introducing your worms into their new environment. The dry material will prevent worms from getting out of your bin since worms need plenty of moisture to crawl around.
If possible, wrap a few sheets of newspaper around the top of the bin. The newspaper should not touch the bedding as this might transfer moisture allowing worms to crawl out.
Place the bin cover, if any.
African Nightcrawler earthworms are migratory in nature and covering your bin's surface with enough dry material, apart from making a proper bedding, prevents the worms from crawling out.
November 2, 2010
Buying Worms For Home Vermicomposting
Here are some things that first time buyers of worms have to consider for their home vermicomposting project.
Worm bedding. The bedding is the temporary home of the worms that also serves as their food. It should be prepared at least two weeks prior to actual purchase from a worm supplier. For more information on worm bedding, check out the following:
The simplest way to make a worm bed is to layer different kinds of biodegradable household wastes with carbon rich materials (shredded paper, dried tree leaves, etc.) in an ordinary rice sack until three-fourths of the sack is filled up. If you're using a laminated rice sack, punch pinholes to allow water and air to flow freely. Cover the layer of biodegradable waste with soil or dried tree leaves. This will prevent bad odors from developing. Water to moisten the bedding. DO NOT drench the bedding!
When the the sack is three-fourths full, allow the materials to decompose for two weeks before buying worms. After two weeks, the bedding should have lost at least one-fourth of its original volume.
Check the sack for heat by deeply inserting a barbecue stick into the center of the bedding. Leave the stick for 15 minutes before pulling it out. Hold the tip of the stick. If the stick feels warm, allow the bedding one more week to cool off. Repeat this procedure before purchasing worms. Buy worms when the tip of the stick feels cool (ambient temperature) when touched.
Water the bedding to reach 80 - 90% moisture content before introducing earthworms into the bedding. Stop immediately when water starts seeping at the bottom of the sack.
Where to buy worms. Buy worms from the nearest worm supplier in your community to lessen risk of worms dying during transport. Buying earthworms from the nearest supplier also lessens the stress on the worms that leads to biomass loss. Also, buy earthworms from someone who is willing to teach you on how to propagate the worms.
Amount of worms to buy. Buy one-fourth kilo of African Nightcrawlers to start your backyard vermiculture project. Starting small saves on cost while learning to take care of earthworms.
Once you have successfully raised earthworms, purchasing additional earthworms should pose no problem.
Kind of worms to buy. The African Nightcrawler earthworm is suited to tropical conditions. Sourcing for this type of worm in the Philippines is not usually difficult since this is commonly raised by farmers and hobbyists.
Introducing worms to their bedding. After buying your earthworms, it is best to immediately introduce them to the prepared bedding. I scatter the worms around the sides of the bedding since this is the place that has the lowest temperature.
Check your worms the next day for signs of "migration". If the worms have stayed within the confines of their bedding, this is a good sign. If not, the bedding is still probably too hot for them. I have noticed that worms "escape" beddings that are not yet finished with the heating stage of composting. One way to deal with this is to collect the escaping worms and provide them with a cooler environment, like newspaper bedding with some soil in it. Place the newspaper bedding beside the original bedding prepared. The earthworms will eventually go to their original bedding after the temperature has gone down to less than thirty degrees centigrade.
The list above covers most of the issues first-time buyers of worms have to face.
After buying your initial stock of African Nightcrawler earthworms, other issues on worm management will surface. I suggest that you read an earlier post on vermiculture chores
If you're looking for an earthworm supplier in Metro Manila, please go here.
Worm bedding. The bedding is the temporary home of the worms that also serves as their food. It should be prepared at least two weeks prior to actual purchase from a worm supplier. For more information on worm bedding, check out the following:
Composting Kitchen and Garden Waste Pre-composting High-protein Food Wastes Vermicomposting Using Rice Sacks As Worm Bin
The simplest way to make a worm bed is to layer different kinds of biodegradable household wastes with carbon rich materials (shredded paper, dried tree leaves, etc.) in an ordinary rice sack until three-fourths of the sack is filled up. If you're using a laminated rice sack, punch pinholes to allow water and air to flow freely. Cover the layer of biodegradable waste with soil or dried tree leaves. This will prevent bad odors from developing. Water to moisten the bedding. DO NOT drench the bedding!
When the the sack is three-fourths full, allow the materials to decompose for two weeks before buying worms. After two weeks, the bedding should have lost at least one-fourth of its original volume.
Check the sack for heat by deeply inserting a barbecue stick into the center of the bedding. Leave the stick for 15 minutes before pulling it out. Hold the tip of the stick. If the stick feels warm, allow the bedding one more week to cool off. Repeat this procedure before purchasing worms. Buy worms when the tip of the stick feels cool (ambient temperature) when touched.
Water the bedding to reach 80 - 90% moisture content before introducing earthworms into the bedding. Stop immediately when water starts seeping at the bottom of the sack.
Where to buy worms. Buy worms from the nearest worm supplier in your community to lessen risk of worms dying during transport. Buying earthworms from the nearest supplier also lessens the stress on the worms that leads to biomass loss. Also, buy earthworms from someone who is willing to teach you on how to propagate the worms.
Amount of worms to buy. Buy one-fourth kilo of African Nightcrawlers to start your backyard vermiculture project. Starting small saves on cost while learning to take care of earthworms.
Once you have successfully raised earthworms, purchasing additional earthworms should pose no problem.
Kind of worms to buy. The African Nightcrawler earthworm is suited to tropical conditions. Sourcing for this type of worm in the Philippines is not usually difficult since this is commonly raised by farmers and hobbyists.
Introducing worms to their bedding. After buying your earthworms, it is best to immediately introduce them to the prepared bedding. I scatter the worms around the sides of the bedding since this is the place that has the lowest temperature.
Check your worms the next day for signs of "migration". If the worms have stayed within the confines of their bedding, this is a good sign. If not, the bedding is still probably too hot for them. I have noticed that worms "escape" beddings that are not yet finished with the heating stage of composting. One way to deal with this is to collect the escaping worms and provide them with a cooler environment, like newspaper bedding with some soil in it. Place the newspaper bedding beside the original bedding prepared. The earthworms will eventually go to their original bedding after the temperature has gone down to less than thirty degrees centigrade.
The list above covers most of the issues first-time buyers of worms have to face.
After buying your initial stock of African Nightcrawler earthworms, other issues on worm management will surface. I suggest that you read an earlier post on vermiculture chores
If you're looking for an earthworm supplier in Metro Manila, please go here.
October 13, 2010
An Update On My Home Vermicomposting Project: Raising Earthworms as Pets to Help Mother Earth
I started raising African Nightcrawler (ANC) earthworms February of this year. The worms I bought then weighed one kilo that were placed in two [half-full] sacks of pre-composted kitchen and garden waste.
It took me about three months to get the hang of it. I had to deal with worms escaping from their bins, scorching heat due to el nino, and worm food recipe.
Having started with two sacks of substrate, I now have 15 sacks of substrate. Each sack contains at least one-half kilo of African Nightcrawlers(ANC).
Starting couple of months ago, I have been collecting banana peels from the nearest public market because our kitchen and garden wastes are not enough to feed the worms.
I don't shred the banana peels anymore since I don't have a shredding machine. Manual shredding just takes too much time and effort.
I fill up each sack with banana peels weighing about 30 kilos and wait for two weeks before introducing one-fourth kilo of worms. I sort the vermicomposted substrate after sixty (60) days.
I have estimated my worm inventory at ten (10) kilos at the least. This includes escapees that meander in the garden. I use composted materials as mulch to feed escapee worms. Worm traps are set around the garden whenever there's a new sack.
I have been selling excess worms since July. I fully recovered the Php1,000.00 initial cost of worms in that month alone. Not bad.
More importantly, almost 100% of our biodegradable household solid waste is vermicomposted. Apart from kitchen and garden wastes, paper waste is also added to the sacks.
Vermicomposting allows me to do my part in saving Mother Earth.
It took me about three months to get the hang of it. I had to deal with worms escaping from their bins, scorching heat due to el nino, and worm food recipe.
Having started with two sacks of substrate, I now have 15 sacks of substrate. Each sack contains at least one-half kilo of African Nightcrawlers(ANC).
Starting couple of months ago, I have been collecting banana peels from the nearest public market because our kitchen and garden wastes are not enough to feed the worms.
I don't shred the banana peels anymore since I don't have a shredding machine. Manual shredding just takes too much time and effort.
I fill up each sack with banana peels weighing about 30 kilos and wait for two weeks before introducing one-fourth kilo of worms. I sort the vermicomposted substrate after sixty (60) days.
I have estimated my worm inventory at ten (10) kilos at the least. This includes escapees that meander in the garden. I use composted materials as mulch to feed escapee worms. Worm traps are set around the garden whenever there's a new sack.
I have been selling excess worms since July. I fully recovered the Php1,000.00 initial cost of worms in that month alone. Not bad.
More importantly, almost 100% of our biodegradable household solid waste is vermicomposted. Apart from kitchen and garden wastes, paper waste is also added to the sacks.
Vermicomposting allows me to do my part in saving Mother Earth.
July 5, 2010
Vermicomposting Using Rice Sacks as Worm Bins
This is my step-by-step method of using rice sacks for vermicomposting.
1. Inverting the bottom corners of the sack. This allows the sack to "stand".
2.
3. Place a few sheets of newspaper at the bottom. The newspaper absorbs all the excess water of the bedding. During airdrying, the newspaper ensures that the bottom part does not dry out completely.
4. Add the precomposted materials. The precomposted materials should still be moist at this point. Three 5-gallon containers of precomposted organic waste gives about 15"-high worm bed. Add a few handfuls of soil while filling up the sack. Top-off by evenly distributing soil enough to cover the material.
5. Bring the sack to its final location before filling-up. This way, it is still light enough to carry. Once filled-up, insert a stick all the way to the bottom. Allow the pre-composted materials to settle for 2 to 3 days while keeping it moist (not wet). DO NOT introduce worms at this point.
After 2 or 3 days, pull out the stick. If the stick is still warm, then give it a 2 or 3 more days to cool off. Make sure that the bedding is kept moist. DO NOT TURN the bedding as this will trigger a heating-up phase.
6. When the precomposted materials have cooled-off, water up to 90% moisture. Introduce 100 to 250 grams of worms to the bedding. It helps if substrate from the bed where the worms came is also introduced to the new bed. Cover the worms with a wet sheet of newspaper.Fold (or close) the sack opening to prevent predation and excessive watering due to rain.
Write the date of introduction. Count 60 days and this will be the harvest/sorting date.
7. Allow the worms 60 days to feed on the bedding. 60 days of worm treatment will give excellent vermicompost. By this time, the bedding will have lost 50% of its original volume and organic particles will be smaller.
8. Stop watering the worm bed 5 days (during summer) to 2 weeks (rainy season) before sorting. If placed outdoors, transfer the sack to a roofed place to keep out the rain and cover with tarp. Allowing the substrate to dry a little facilitates separation of the vermicompost and worms. The unconsumed material can be added to a new sack with the worms.
1. Inverting the bottom corners of the sack. This allows the sack to "stand".
2.
3. Place a few sheets of newspaper at the bottom. The newspaper absorbs all the excess water of the bedding. During airdrying, the newspaper ensures that the bottom part does not dry out completely.
4. Add the precomposted materials. The precomposted materials should still be moist at this point. Three 5-gallon containers of precomposted organic waste gives about 15"-high worm bed. Add a few handfuls of soil while filling up the sack. Top-off by evenly distributing soil enough to cover the material.
5. Bring the sack to its final location before filling-up. This way, it is still light enough to carry. Once filled-up, insert a stick all the way to the bottom. Allow the pre-composted materials to settle for 2 to 3 days while keeping it moist (not wet). DO NOT introduce worms at this point.
After 2 or 3 days, pull out the stick. If the stick is still warm, then give it a 2 or 3 more days to cool off. Make sure that the bedding is kept moist. DO NOT TURN the bedding as this will trigger a heating-up phase.
6. When the precomposted materials have cooled-off, water up to 90% moisture. Introduce 100 to 250 grams of worms to the bedding. It helps if substrate from the bed where the worms came is also introduced to the new bed. Cover the worms with a wet sheet of newspaper.Fold (or close) the sack opening to prevent predation and excessive watering due to rain.
Write the date of introduction. Count 60 days and this will be the harvest/sorting date.
7. Allow the worms 60 days to feed on the bedding. 60 days of worm treatment will give excellent vermicompost. By this time, the bedding will have lost 50% of its original volume and organic particles will be smaller.
8. Stop watering the worm bed 5 days (during summer) to 2 weeks (rainy season) before sorting. If placed outdoors, transfer the sack to a roofed place to keep out the rain and cover with tarp. Allowing the substrate to dry a little facilitates separation of the vermicompost and worms. The unconsumed material can be added to a new sack with the worms.
June 10, 2010
Vermicompost Tea: Brew Effective Micro-organisms Using Vermicompost - Part 1
VERMICOMPOST TEA (or VERMITEA) is the liquid extract from fermented vermicompost. Vermitea is an excellent organic fertilizer and pesticide. This is due to the presence of beneficial microorganisms in the tea. "The vermi teas had about one-third of the microbial activity and diversity of the solid vermicompost, volume to volume." (Arancon, et al, 2007).
Since it is in liquid form, vermitea can be used as an organic foliar fertilizer. Spraying also allows plants to benefit from the pesticidal properties of vermitea. Apart from inhibiting arthropod pests like aphids and spider mites, vermicompost tea suppresses plant diseases (ex. Pythium) and plant parasitic nematodes (ex. root knot nematodes).
Vermitea is also an excellent plant growth promoter and soil ammendment. According to soil scientists, using vermitea produces major growth differences between plants grown on soil and water and those grown on soil and vermitea. "The presence of plant growth regulators in the teas...can influence plant growth significantly independent of nutrient availability." (Arancon, et al, 2007)
Experience the benefits of vermitea by using the following recipe.
HOW TO MAKE VERMITEA
Since it is in liquid form, vermitea can be used as an organic foliar fertilizer. Spraying also allows plants to benefit from the pesticidal properties of vermitea. Apart from inhibiting arthropod pests like aphids and spider mites, vermicompost tea suppresses plant diseases (ex. Pythium) and plant parasitic nematodes (ex. root knot nematodes).
Vermitea is also an excellent plant growth promoter and soil ammendment. According to soil scientists, using vermitea produces major growth differences between plants grown on soil and water and those grown on soil and vermitea. "The presence of plant growth regulators in the teas...can influence plant growth significantly independent of nutrient availability." (Arancon, et al, 2007)
Experience the benefits of vermitea by using the following recipe.
HOW TO MAKE VERMITEA
Materials Needed:NOTES:
Chlorine-free water --> 20 partsProcedure:
Vermicompost --> 1 part
Molasses or brown sugar --> 6/10 part
Measuring Cup (1 Liter)
powerhead pump or air pump(used to aerate aquariums)
24 liter plastic pail with lid
funnel
cheesecloth bag/used sock/pantyhose or pillowcase
1. Fill pail with 20 liters of chlorine-free water.
2. Add 600mL molasses or brown sugar in the water and mix well until molasses is fully diluted.
3. Attach the powerhead pump inside the pail. The outlet should be submerged just right below the water's surface. Once securely attached, switch on the powerhead.
4. Put 1 liter vermicompost in cheesecloth bag (or used sock, etc). Tie with a string. The string should be long enough to facilitate drawing out the bag from the liquid after fermentation, just like green tea!
5. Submerge the bag containing vermicompost in the water.
6. Put the lid on to prevent dust, insects, etc from contaminating the mixture.
7. Ferment the mixture for 48 hours.
After 48 Hours
8. Test the mixture for bad odors. The vermicompost tea should have a pleasant, earthy smell. We want our vermitea to be aerobic. An awful smell means that anaerobic bacteria have taken over the mixture and should be discarded directly into a drain pipe.
9. Pull out the cheesecloth bag and the power head. The remaining liquid is our vermitea, an organic foliar fertilizer and pesticide.
10. Use a funnel to transfer the liquid into a sprayer. Spray immediately. Adding mild dish-washing liquid helps the vermitea adhere to plant leaves.Do not store the liquid.
* The volume:volume ratios of vermicompost to water used by Arancon, et al, were: 1:5 (20%); 1:10 (10%); 1:20 (5%). I am suggesting a 5% dilution to save on solid vermicompost.Sources:
"Vermicompost tea production and plant growth impacts" by Arancon, Edwards, Dick and Dick, www.biocycle.net, November 2007
Compost Tea Brew Recipes
Using Earthworms to Make Super Vermicompost
May 21, 2010
Help Mother Nature, Raise Earthworms as Pets
Climate change is not theory anymore. Immediately after Ondoy and Pepeng, El Niño swiftly made its presence felt.
The scorching summer heat, the hottest I have experienced so far, is a disturbing preview of things to come.
We need to take immediate corrective action. After all, it is our survival as a species that is at stake.
An effective way to help Mother Earth is to raise earthworms as pets!
We help Mother Earth in two ways when we raise earthworms as pets: first, we lessen our carbon footprint by lessening our need for landfills and the frequency of garbage collection; second, we return nutrients to earth when we use vermicompost to fertilize plants.
Go ahead, raise earthworms as pets and help Mother Earth!
The scorching summer heat, the hottest I have experienced so far, is a disturbing preview of things to come.
We need to take immediate corrective action. After all, it is our survival as a species that is at stake.
An effective way to help Mother Earth is to raise earthworms as pets!
We help Mother Earth in two ways when we raise earthworms as pets: first, we lessen our carbon footprint by lessening our need for landfills and the frequency of garbage collection; second, we return nutrients to earth when we use vermicompost to fertilize plants.
Go ahead, raise earthworms as pets and help Mother Earth!
May 18, 2010
Grievious Mistake Kills Earthworms
In an earnest desire to monitor growth rate of earthworm biomass using leaf mold as bedding, I hurriedly introduced 100 grams of adult African Nightcrawlers and 100 grams of juvenile earthworms into 4 kgs. of freshly pre-composted leaf substrate.
I failed to allow the leaf mold substrate to settle for 2 to 3 days and check if the bedding temperature would still rise.
This overlooked step cost me dearly. After the 2nd day, the bedding was noticeably smaller and it smelled of rotten eggs!
I spread out the smelly substrate on a white tarpaulin and checked for survivors. Unfortunately, there wasn't a single individual that survived.
I failed to allow the leaf mold substrate to settle for 2 to 3 days and check if the bedding temperature would still rise.
This overlooked step cost me dearly. After the 2nd day, the bedding was noticeably smaller and it smelled of rotten eggs!
I spread out the smelly substrate on a white tarpaulin and checked for survivors. Unfortunately, there wasn't a single individual that survived.
May 11, 2010
Sorting Vermicompost!
I have sorted my first batch of vermicompost the past weekend. I found out that manually sorting vermicompost moderately exercises my body.
Having used rice sacks as worm bins, I stopped watering the bins one week before sorting. This was done to facilitate the sorting process.
Honestly, I was quite anxious that the worms might abandon the bedding or die due to lack of moisture. I was relieved to find that the lower part still had sufficient moisture. The worms just dug into the bed. There were few escapees and I just considered them as lost to the system.
I never approached household vermicomposting in a very business-like manner so I didn't record the starting weight of the worm mass and the bedding. I just wrote the start date, the day the worms were introduced into the bedding, and the end dates, which was 30 and 45 days after introduction of the worms. For the bedding, I estimated it to be between 12 to 15 inches high.
I remember introducing between 20 to 30 worms to each sack. I was glad to find out that I got more than the initial worms per sack especially if I am going to count the juveniles which were numerous.
The four sacks I sorted still had a lot of unconsumed leaves although the particles were a lot smaller compared to the initial size of the composted shredded leaves. I ended up with two sackfuls of bedding each about 15 inches high and one-fourth sack of vermicompost.
I didn't sort the worms anymore. I just put juveniles and adults together. I watered the bedding and placed the sacks between two gumamela plants.
On a piece of newsprint, I wrote the start date. This time, the end dates were 6 weeks for one sack and 8 weeks for the 2nd sack.
Well, I still have 8 sacks and one outdoor bed left for sorting within the month.
Hmmmm...maybe I can start retailing African Nighcrawlers.
Earthworms for sale, anyone?
Having used rice sacks as worm bins, I stopped watering the bins one week before sorting. This was done to facilitate the sorting process.
Honestly, I was quite anxious that the worms might abandon the bedding or die due to lack of moisture. I was relieved to find that the lower part still had sufficient moisture. The worms just dug into the bed. There were few escapees and I just considered them as lost to the system.
I never approached household vermicomposting in a very business-like manner so I didn't record the starting weight of the worm mass and the bedding. I just wrote the start date, the day the worms were introduced into the bedding, and the end dates, which was 30 and 45 days after introduction of the worms. For the bedding, I estimated it to be between 12 to 15 inches high.
I remember introducing between 20 to 30 worms to each sack. I was glad to find out that I got more than the initial worms per sack especially if I am going to count the juveniles which were numerous.
The four sacks I sorted still had a lot of unconsumed leaves although the particles were a lot smaller compared to the initial size of the composted shredded leaves. I ended up with two sackfuls of bedding each about 15 inches high and one-fourth sack of vermicompost.
I didn't sort the worms anymore. I just put juveniles and adults together. I watered the bedding and placed the sacks between two gumamela plants.
On a piece of newsprint, I wrote the start date. This time, the end dates were 6 weeks for one sack and 8 weeks for the 2nd sack.
Well, I still have 8 sacks and one outdoor bed left for sorting within the month.
Hmmmm...maybe I can start retailing African Nighcrawlers.
Earthworms for sale, anyone?
April 22, 2010
Pre-Composting and Vermiculture/Vermicomposting Links
If you wish to know more about precomposting, vermiculture and vermicomposting, here are a few sites that may be helpful.
Earthworm Biology and Production
Pre-Composting Then Vermicomposting
Effect of precomposting and vermicomposting on compost characteristics
Contrasting Composting and Vermicomposting Systems
Effect of precomposting on vermicomposting of kitchen waste
Vermicomposting
Vermitopia Bin Plans
Reviews of Continuous Flow Vermicomposting Bins (Earthworm Reactors)
April 18, 2010
Definition of Vermiculture and Vermicomposting
The definitions were taken from "Manual of On-Farm Vermicomposting and Vermiculture By Glenn Munroe, Organic Agriculture Centre of Canada".
Thanks Mr. Munroe
Manual of On-Farm Vermicomposting and Vermiculture By Glenn Munroe, Organic Agriculture Centre of Canada
"Vermiculture is the culture of earthworms. The goal is to continually increase the number of worms in order to obtain a sustainable harvest. The worms are either used to expand a vermicomposting operation or sold to customers who use them for the same or other purposes [e.g. fish bait].
Vermicomposting is the process by which worms are used to convert organic materials (usually wastes) into a humus-like material known as vermicompost. The goal is to process the material as quickly and efficiently as possible.
These two processes are similar but different. If your goal is to produce vermicompost, you will want to have your maximum worm population density all of the time. If your goal is to produce worms, you will want to keep the population density low enough that reproductive rates are optimized."
Thanks Mr. Munroe
Manual of On-Farm Vermicomposting and Vermiculture By Glenn Munroe, Organic Agriculture Centre of Canada
April 14, 2010
Using Rice Sacks as Earthworm Bin
I started my vermiculture project using an outdoor bed for African Nightcrawlers (ANC). Recently, I have been also trying out rice sacks [the regular ones, and not the laminated rice sacks] as container for worm bedding (also called substrate) and earthworms.
The bedding consists of pre-composted kitchen waste and tree leaves and a handful of soil.
Each sack contains bedding materials that has a minimum height of twelve inches (12"). The maximum height is eighteen inches (18") of bedding [that's about up to my knees]. For every six inches of bedding, sprinkle about 200 ml of water and spread a handful of soil over the bedding. Place the sacks in a shaded area, say, under a tree.
Do not introduce your earthworms yet.
Allow the bedding to settle for about two to three days before introducing the earthworms. Check the temperature of the bed before introducing the African Nightcrawlers into the rice sack bed. The bed should be cool. If the bed is hot or warm, allow it to cool for a couple of days more.
I just use about twenty adult earthworms per sack to maximize reproduction rate [vermiculture]. Each sack is watered three times a week using about one-fourth liter (1/4L) of chlorine-free water.
If you wish a faster vermicomposting process, use about 250 grams of African Nightcrawlers per sack [that's about two handfuls of adult African Nightcrawlers].
I use a clothespin to close the sack. The sack must be securely closed to prevent predators like frogs from eating the earthworms.
Don't add food anymore to encourage the worms to consume all the bedding.
The bed can be sorted 45 to 60 days after introduction of earthworms. Stop watering the bedding one week before harvest for easier separation of castings and earthworms.
I plan to harvest one sack each on the thirtieth (30th), forty-fifth (45th) and sixtieth (60th) day to determine best results for the rice sack vermiculture method.
The bedding consists of pre-composted kitchen waste and tree leaves and a handful of soil.
Each sack contains bedding materials that has a minimum height of twelve inches (12"). The maximum height is eighteen inches (18") of bedding [that's about up to my knees]. For every six inches of bedding, sprinkle about 200 ml of water and spread a handful of soil over the bedding. Place the sacks in a shaded area, say, under a tree.
Do not introduce your earthworms yet.
Allow the bedding to settle for about two to three days before introducing the earthworms. Check the temperature of the bed before introducing the African Nightcrawlers into the rice sack bed. The bed should be cool. If the bed is hot or warm, allow it to cool for a couple of days more.
I just use about twenty adult earthworms per sack to maximize reproduction rate [vermiculture]. Each sack is watered three times a week using about one-fourth liter (1/4L) of chlorine-free water.
If you wish a faster vermicomposting process, use about 250 grams of African Nightcrawlers per sack [that's about two handfuls of adult African Nightcrawlers].
I use a clothespin to close the sack. The sack must be securely closed to prevent predators like frogs from eating the earthworms.
Don't add food anymore to encourage the worms to consume all the bedding.
The bed can be sorted 45 to 60 days after introduction of earthworms. Stop watering the bedding one week before harvest for easier separation of castings and earthworms.
I plan to harvest one sack each on the thirtieth (30th), forty-fifth (45th) and sixtieth (60th) day to determine best results for the rice sack vermiculture method.
March 15, 2010
Raising earthworms as pets: moisture, aeration, temperature and pH
Appropriate moisture. Earthworms breathe through their skin. The moisture in the bedding should range from 70% to 90%. In a tropical country like the Philippines, watering of the bedding should be frequent - 2x or 3x weekly -, especially during summertime. Excessive watering should be avoided.
Aeration. Worms need air to breathe. They don't need plenty of air as humans do but still, they need air. The bedding material should be porous and loose enough to facilitate airflow, moist but not wet since excessive water cuts off airflow thereby creating anaerobic conditions. This will quickly kill off the earthworms.
The bedding should not be compacted to ensure that worms can move from one place to another. The earthworms' movement encourages aeration of the bedding. Compaction of the bedding hinder the worms' movement.
Temperature. African Nightcrawlers can handle temperature ranging from 4 degrees celsius to 35 degrees Celsius. The bedding should protect them from extreme temperature.
In the Philippines, scorching summers are deadly to African Nightcrawlers. Earthworm bins should be placed indoors or under the shade of a tree. Surrounding your worm bin with potted plants also help lower the temperature in the bin.
pH Earthworms prefer a neutral pH but can live in a pH range of 5 to 9. Beddings tend become acidic over time depending on the food source. Adding calcium carbonate remedies acidic beds. High pH beds are rare.
The next post discusses pre-composting of high protein food wastes using Biolant BM concentrate.
SOURCE:"Manual of On-Farm Vermicomposting and Vermiculture", by Glenn Munroe, Organic Agriculture Centre of Canada
Aeration. Worms need air to breathe. They don't need plenty of air as humans do but still, they need air. The bedding material should be porous and loose enough to facilitate airflow, moist but not wet since excessive water cuts off airflow thereby creating anaerobic conditions. This will quickly kill off the earthworms.
The bedding should not be compacted to ensure that worms can move from one place to another. The earthworms' movement encourages aeration of the bedding. Compaction of the bedding hinder the worms' movement.
Temperature. African Nightcrawlers can handle temperature ranging from 4 degrees celsius to 35 degrees Celsius. The bedding should protect them from extreme temperature.
In the Philippines, scorching summers are deadly to African Nightcrawlers. Earthworm bins should be placed indoors or under the shade of a tree. Surrounding your worm bin with potted plants also help lower the temperature in the bin.
pH Earthworms prefer a neutral pH but can live in a pH range of 5 to 9. Beddings tend become acidic over time depending on the food source. Adding calcium carbonate remedies acidic beds. High pH beds are rare.
The next post discusses pre-composting of high protein food wastes using Biolant BM concentrate.
SOURCE:"Manual of On-Farm Vermicomposting and Vermiculture", by Glenn Munroe, Organic Agriculture Centre of Canada
March 14, 2010
Raising earthworms as pets: proper bedding for African Nightcrawlers
In a previous post, I have discussed the benefits of raising the African Nightcrawler earthworms as household pets. This post is the second installment on raising ANC worms as pets.
Proper bedding. The bedding is any material that provides a livable environment for earthworms. It must have the following characteristics: water retentiveness, good bulking potential (porosity and looseness), and high carbon and low nitrogen (low protein) content.
The bedding must be able to retain water. The African Nightcrawler earthworm breathes through its skin and needs moisture to do so. An earthworm dies if its skin dries up.
The bedding must be porous and loose. Earthworms require air to breathe and a dense bedding severely limits air flow.
The bedding should have a high carbon and low nitrogen (low protein) content. The bedding is eaten by earthworms as it breaks down. High protein materials need to undergo a thermophilic decomposition before being fed to earthworms. High protein (high nitrogen) materials like meat and dairy products heat up considerably while decomposing. The heat generated is fatal to the African Nightcrawler.
In urban settings, newspaper and brown carton boxes are the best primary bedding material to use. Apart from ease of sourcing, there is nothing in newsprint (or brown carton boxes) that is harmful to worms. DO NOT use glossy paper since it contains substances toxic to earthworms.
To make a newspaper bedding, shred newspaper (and/or carton boxes) to one-inch strips. Fluff the newspaper strips by working your hands into the bedding. Broadcast some soil over the paper strips. The soil provides grit to the worms' intestines and is a good source of microorganisms that break down food scraps. Spray with water until 50% - 80% moist but not wet.
Once the bedding is finished, you can introduce the worms and allow the worms to work its way into the bedding. For every kilogram of bedding, I add about ten (10) adult African Nightcrawler earthworms.
My next post is about earthworm food.
SOURCE:"Manual of On-Farm Vermicomposting and Vermiculture", by Glenn Munroe, Organic Agriculture Centre of Canada
Proper bedding. The bedding is any material that provides a livable environment for earthworms. It must have the following characteristics: water retentiveness, good bulking potential (porosity and looseness), and high carbon and low nitrogen (low protein) content.
The bedding must be able to retain water. The African Nightcrawler earthworm breathes through its skin and needs moisture to do so. An earthworm dies if its skin dries up.
The bedding must be porous and loose. Earthworms require air to breathe and a dense bedding severely limits air flow.
The bedding should have a high carbon and low nitrogen (low protein) content. The bedding is eaten by earthworms as it breaks down. High protein materials need to undergo a thermophilic decomposition before being fed to earthworms. High protein (high nitrogen) materials like meat and dairy products heat up considerably while decomposing. The heat generated is fatal to the African Nightcrawler.
In urban settings, newspaper and brown carton boxes are the best primary bedding material to use. Apart from ease of sourcing, there is nothing in newsprint (or brown carton boxes) that is harmful to worms. DO NOT use glossy paper since it contains substances toxic to earthworms.
To make a newspaper bedding, shred newspaper (and/or carton boxes) to one-inch strips. Fluff the newspaper strips by working your hands into the bedding. Broadcast some soil over the paper strips. The soil provides grit to the worms' intestines and is a good source of microorganisms that break down food scraps. Spray with water until 50% - 80% moist but not wet.
Once the bedding is finished, you can introduce the worms and allow the worms to work its way into the bedding. For every kilogram of bedding, I add about ten (10) adult African Nightcrawler earthworms.
My next post is about earthworm food.
SOURCE:"Manual of On-Farm Vermicomposting and Vermiculture", by Glenn Munroe, Organic Agriculture Centre of Canada
Raising earthworms as pets: food source
Food source. African Nightcrawlers are voracious eaters of kitchen and garden wastes. A good rule of thumb is to add a cup of shredded fruit peelings and/or vegetable wastes everyday for every 20 worms OR add food scraps equivalent to the initial purchase weight of the worms.
High protein kitchen wastes like meat, fish, dairy, and oily foods need to be pre-composted before using as worm food. Worms breathe through their skin. If oil coats their skin, they wouldn't be able to breathe. Citrus and onion peels should also be pre-composted.
Pre-composting allows high protein materials to breakdown and give off heat without affecting the earthworms. Gases produced by high protein materials like ammonia are also fatal to earthworms.
Shredded, dried tree leaves and garden wastes can also be added to the bedding as worm food but it is better to pre-compost these with high protein materials.
I will discuss in another post a simple method of pre-composting food waste.
SOURCE:"Manual of On-Farm Vermicomposting and Vermiculture", by Glenn Munroe, Organic Agriculture Centre of Canada
High protein kitchen wastes like meat, fish, dairy, and oily foods need to be pre-composted before using as worm food. Worms breathe through their skin. If oil coats their skin, they wouldn't be able to breathe. Citrus and onion peels should also be pre-composted.
Pre-composting allows high protein materials to breakdown and give off heat without affecting the earthworms. Gases produced by high protein materials like ammonia are also fatal to earthworms.
Shredded, dried tree leaves and garden wastes can also be added to the bedding as worm food but it is better to pre-compost these with high protein materials.
I will discuss in another post a simple method of pre-composting food waste.
SOURCE:"Manual of On-Farm Vermicomposting and Vermiculture", by Glenn Munroe, Organic Agriculture Centre of Canada
March 12, 2010
Raising earthworms as pets: the African Nightcrawler (ANC)
Worms, specifically the African Nightcrawler Worms (Eudrilus eugeniae), as household pets have tremendous potential in making our environment healthier.
Vermicomposting(worm composting) is an ecologically sustainable way of converting biodegradable household wastes into fertilizer. The fertilizer, called vermicasts, has proven to be equal if not superior to synthetic fertilizers.
Nevertheless, the idea of worms as pets is quite difficult to accept because worms are unsightly creatures. The fact that worms feed on rotting materials including animal manure gives the impression that they are dirty and may be a source of diseases.
This impression has no basis at all.
Recent scientific studies have indicated that worm castings are free from pathogenic bacteria and suppresses soil microorganisms detrimental to plants. Some bio-remediation experiments use worms to find out their effectiveness in cleaning contaminated soils.
Worms need care as other pets do. Five basic requirements need to be met to successfully take care of worms: proper bedding, food source, appropriate moisture, aeration and protection from temperature extremes.
It seems difficult but once everything has been set-up, things become easier.
My next post discusses proper bedding for worms.
The reference used for the succeeding posts on "Raising earthworms as pets" is the "Manual of On-Farm Vermicomposting and Vermiculture", by Glenn Munroe, Organic Agriculture Centre of Canada
Vermicomposting(worm composting) is an ecologically sustainable way of converting biodegradable household wastes into fertilizer. The fertilizer, called vermicasts, has proven to be equal if not superior to synthetic fertilizers.
Nevertheless, the idea of worms as pets is quite difficult to accept because worms are unsightly creatures. The fact that worms feed on rotting materials including animal manure gives the impression that they are dirty and may be a source of diseases.
This impression has no basis at all.
Recent scientific studies have indicated that worm castings are free from pathogenic bacteria and suppresses soil microorganisms detrimental to plants. Some bio-remediation experiments use worms to find out their effectiveness in cleaning contaminated soils.
Worms need care as other pets do. Five basic requirements need to be met to successfully take care of worms: proper bedding, food source, appropriate moisture, aeration and protection from temperature extremes.
It seems difficult but once everything has been set-up, things become easier.
My next post discusses proper bedding for worms.
The reference used for the succeeding posts on "Raising earthworms as pets" is the "Manual of On-Farm Vermicomposting and Vermiculture", by Glenn Munroe, Organic Agriculture Centre of Canada
February 7, 2010
First vermiculture project
A friend from high school agreed to start a vermiculture project with me. This is our first time to take care of worms. The type of worms used is the African Night Crawler.
We prepared the vermiculture substrate from kitchen waste and garden waste.
Daily, we collected dried tree leaves that were chopped to small pieces (less than 5cm x 5cm) and placed in a sack for storage. In another sack, we layered the kitchen waste with the stored leaves. Chopped, dried leaves about 10cm thick were spread at the bottom of the sack. Kitchen waste was spread over it and sprayed with Biolant solution*. We added another layer of chopped leaves on top of the kitchen waste. We thoroughly covered the kitchen waste with chopped leaves.
The procedure was repeated until the sack was full. We covered the filled sack and allowed it to decompose for two more weeks.
After two weeks, we spread the substrate in an outdoor bin located under the shade of a tree, sprayed with Biolant solution up to 60% moisture content, and introduced half a kilo of worms. We covered the worm bin with chicken mesh and topped it with tarp.
The worm bin is watered every two days to maintain moisture.
We plan to harvest the worms in sixty days and use the castings for my friend's herb garden.
P.S. To claim my blog at Technorati, I have to post a short code. But why just the code? Feb 07, 2010. Technorati will need to verify that you are an author of the blog by looking for a unique code. Please put the following short code 6BMYYXHYFG66 within a new blog post and publish it. Once it is published, use the "Verify Claim Token" button to tell Technorati your blog is ready for verification.
We prepared the vermiculture substrate from kitchen waste and garden waste.
Daily, we collected dried tree leaves that were chopped to small pieces (less than 5cm x 5cm) and placed in a sack for storage. In another sack, we layered the kitchen waste with the stored leaves. Chopped, dried leaves about 10cm thick were spread at the bottom of the sack. Kitchen waste was spread over it and sprayed with Biolant solution*. We added another layer of chopped leaves on top of the kitchen waste. We thoroughly covered the kitchen waste with chopped leaves.
The procedure was repeated until the sack was full. We covered the filled sack and allowed it to decompose for two more weeks.
After two weeks, we spread the substrate in an outdoor bin located under the shade of a tree, sprayed with Biolant solution up to 60% moisture content, and introduced half a kilo of worms. We covered the worm bin with chicken mesh and topped it with tarp.
The worm bin is watered every two days to maintain moisture.
We plan to harvest the worms in sixty days and use the castings for my friend's herb garden.
* To prepare biolant solution, add 2 Tablespoons(30mL) of biolant bm concentrate to 1 gallon (approx. 4 liters) of chlorine-free water.
P.S. To claim my blog at Technorati, I have to post a short code. But why just the code? Feb 07, 2010. Technorati will need to verify that you are an author of the blog by looking for a unique code. Please put the following short code 6BMYYXHYFG66 within a new blog post and publish it. Once it is published, use the "Verify Claim Token" button to tell Technorati your blog is ready for verification.
February 2, 2010
Pre-Composting Kitchen and Garden Wastes
As residents of Marikina, our household practices waste segregation. Twice weekly, Waste Management Office (WMO) personnel collect garbage; non-biodegradables on Tuesdays and biodegradables every Saturdays.
I decided on composting to lessen if not eliminate the collection of biodegradable waste as far as our household is concerned. The composted materials would become food for African Nightcrawlers, my pet worms.
Pot Composting
I got a foot tall earthen pot with cover. Kitchen waste and food scraps are collected daily in the pot, sprayed with biolant bm solution, and covered with chopped, dried tree leaves. A large stone is placed on top of the cover to prevent cats foraging for food scraps. Garden wastes are collected daily in a rice sack and chopped weekly using a grass cutter. The decomposing materials do not smell but maggots still infest the pot compost.
It takes almost two weeks to fill up the pot. Once filled up, I just use another pot for collecting wastes. The first pot is left to rot for about two weeks. After 14 days, the pre-composted biodegradable waste is ready to be fed to my pet earthworms. By this time, the second pot is already full.
I recently asked a neighbor to just give me their dried tree leaves instead of having it collected by the WMO people. Our garden is too small to provide enough dried tree leaves for our kitchen wastes.
I decided on composting to lessen if not eliminate the collection of biodegradable waste as far as our household is concerned. The composted materials would become food for African Nightcrawlers, my pet worms.
Pot Composting
I got a foot tall earthen pot with cover. Kitchen waste and food scraps are collected daily in the pot, sprayed with biolant bm solution, and covered with chopped, dried tree leaves. A large stone is placed on top of the cover to prevent cats foraging for food scraps. Garden wastes are collected daily in a rice sack and chopped weekly using a grass cutter. The decomposing materials do not smell but maggots still infest the pot compost.
It takes almost two weeks to fill up the pot. Once filled up, I just use another pot for collecting wastes. The first pot is left to rot for about two weeks. After 14 days, the pre-composted biodegradable waste is ready to be fed to my pet earthworms. By this time, the second pot is already full.
I recently asked a neighbor to just give me their dried tree leaves instead of having it collected by the WMO people. Our garden is too small to provide enough dried tree leaves for our kitchen wastes.
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